Mounting the hardware
This step is putting in the pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs

• Do the pots first
  • Look at the electronics diagram or the board to see what value pot goes where
  • Line up the anti-rotation tab with the small hole on the box.
    • OR: If the box wasn't drilled with anti-rotation holes (small holes next to every pot hole) bend tabs down on pots
  • Use a washer directly under the nut on every pot, so the paint doesn't scratch
  • Get it tight (a brief word on a very common problem:)
    • Make sure the pot is straight before tightening it down
    • Use a socket wrench to get it super tight: As tight as you can possibly wrench it! Don't hold back! No need to be gentle now! Pots are notorious for wiggling loose over time, so get it tight, like you want it to last 10 years. Don't be afraid to overtighten: it's easy to replace a stripped pot now, harder to do it later, and not so fun if it comes back for repairs.
    • If it gets tight, then goes loose, it's stripped. Throw out the nut and try again with a new nut. If it does the same thing, check to see if the box is smooth around the hole. Smooth it out with a 1/2" bit on the drill press or with a dremel tool. Throw out the stripped pot and the nut and use new ones. Make sure the shaft of the pot is straight vertical (exactly 90 degrees to the box), or else it'll strip again.
• Jacks and switches
  • Look at the board diagram to see what type of jack/switch goes where.
  • Make sure each one gets a washer so the paint doesn't scratch and so it stays tight.
• For LEDs:
  • Screw in a chrome LED clip, or use a plastic snap-in one.
  • Use hotglue if the LED wiggles around.
• Put the knob covers on the pots. Use whatever style you like (except the silver). Use a small flathead screwdriver.

Now you’re ready for wiring