• Steel boxes: before drilling a knock-out, braze or JB-weld it
  • Weld/braze or JB weld on the inside. Don’t worry about this if you’ve got an aluminum box.

• Tight pots and tight knobs last
  • Drill anti-rotation holes.
  • Twist the knobs hard, try to twist them off.
  • If the knob budges tighten it!
  • If the the pot budges when you turn it, then the anti-rotation holes are missing, or not being used right.
  • Replace the pot if the threads look bad (stripped is when the nut goes loose suddenly when you’re tightening it)

• LEDs that stay in their clip will shine for a long time...
  • Make sure they’re wedged in the clip tightly, and the leads aren’t in danger of sorting out to the box or the clip

• Is it labelled or is it art...?
  • if it’s not labelled, include a printed card with the drill layout of the pedal and words telling what’s what.

• www.commonsound.com on every pedal (no matter who made it), so they know where to find us years later
  • Don’t write 4ms Pedals unless you work for 4ms!
  • Make sure to put the name of the model (Noise Swash, Tremulus Lune, etc..)

• Secure the board!
  • Use the glue-on mounting posts

• Make a place for the battery
  • If the pedal uses a battery, check the battery holder is screwed to the box with at least two screws, and put a battery in there to make sure one really will fit!

• The underside needs feet

• Try it
  • Tighten the cover plate screws and plug it in.
  • Turn each knob all the way up, all the way down and listen.
  • Playing it should make sense, and not be confusing.
  • Give it a shake or a thump and listen to it more.
  • Get familiar with the pedal’s sound, especially for pedals with mods.
  • Make sure you like it!

It’s finished!